Last weekend, my friend Dan came through town. We had a great time hanging out with all my fellow students on Friday night at the Residence. Everyone brought snacks and beer and we put on music. It was a nice change from the stress of the work week.
The next day, Dan and I got up semi-early and caught a colectivo (an air conditioned 12 seater van that people usually take for shorter distances – anything under a few hours. our ride from playa to tulum, 1 hour, cost us 25 pesos or US$2.50) down to Tulum. When Dan had been living in Chetumal, he had come up to Tulum on his spring break for a beach vacation. It’s an absolutely beautiful stretch of beach that is way less developed than Playa. It’s been known for a few years now as a backpacker’s paradise, a smallish beach resort type town that has cheap restaurants in town, cheap places to stay on the beach, and is relatively unspoiled. There was this one little place Dan always stayed in, right on the beach, that has rustic cabanas. So, when we got into Tulum we caught a taxi out to the beach to find a place to stay. The taxi dropped us off at the wrong place, the one next door, but we asked there anyway because they also had rustic cabanas. They kind of laughed at us. They had nothing, they were not going to have anything, and if we hadn’t made a reservation months ago, we were not staying there. So, we walked to the next place, the place he had originally had in mind. We ask if there’s a cabana with beds. They also laugh, but do offer that there are still a couple of places in the dormitorio. We say “no thanks” and head to the next place. They also have cabanas, but they are a little less rustic and way more out of our price range. Dan tries to sweet talk them into giving us a break (he used to teach the owner’s kid), but the guy at the desk wasn’t budging. So we walk back to the place with the dormitorio. By this time, I’m exhausted. I was still getting over my cold, had been having severe, um, how do you say it, gastric distress? for a few days, and had been walking around in the mid day sun for an hour with my bag trying to find a place to sleep for the night. I had absolutely no energy (it’s amazing how much the aforementioned “distress” completely drains you – it totally stripped me of all energy). Anyway, so the guy takes our money and leads us to the dormitorio.
I’ve heard the word dormitorio before, and generally that means kind of a big room with bunk beds, like you’d find in a hostel. I’d stayed in two dormitorios in Playa already. They have bunk beds, lockers, perhaps even a room with a toilet. They are usually spartan, in various stages of cleanliness, but generally I’m quite happy. So that’s what I’m expecting.
We walk through this maze of falling down huts. They are circular, made of sticks that have been latched together with no mortar, and have a palm frond thatch roof. Most of the huts have serious holes in either the walls or the roof or both. Some approach the look of a shanty, with random pieces of scrap metal or plastic slapped up somewhere to patch a hole. They’re all quite small, and barely tall enough for a person to stand up inside. Then we get to a slightly bigger, perhaps slightly taller one. This hut also happens to be slightly shabbier, with more patchwork building material than most, and also more gaping holes in walls and roof than most. We duck inside through the opening in one of the walls (where more sticks were missing than in other parts of the wall) and come into a small space with a central support beam and one cross beam running from that to the walls (imagine one beam holding up the roof and another beam forming a T about 3/4 of the way up). There are about ten hammocks slung from the center of this cross beam to the outside walls. I collapse on the sand (there is no floor) and take a long chug of Pedialyte. Then I get a real chance to look around. There are no beds. There are no lockers. There is nothing but a circular hut with no floor and one central beam with a cross beam and ten hammocks. The guy leaves us behind and I ask Dan, so, where are we meant to sleep? Well, thank goodness for small blessings, Dan has his family sized hammock with him. It’s actually quite a nice hammock: hand woven in the Mayan tradition with soft thread and a fine yet breathable weave, much nicer than any of the other ten hammocks in the hut. So, he strings up his hammock while I finish my Pedialyte. We decide to leave our bags in the reception hut, which at least is guarded or locked most of the day, and then walk down to the beach.
This is where it gets good. Our hut is probably five metres from the beach. And this is not just any beach. Fine, white sand, some shade to be had in clusters of palm trees, beautiful greenish blue water, and hardly anyone else (well, at least compared to Playa). We lay out under some palm trees to read and nap on and off for a few hours. Bliss. We see these intense black clouds coming down the beach, so we run to put our books and towels inside and then run back out to take a walk down the beach. It starts to rain, but it’s slightly cool so it feels really refreshing. There’s no thunder, so we wade out into the ocean. The water is warmer than I expected, certainly warmer than the rain. The water on this coast is usually pretty calm, but the storm has created a few small waves, so we’re able to float in the water with the waves gently rocking us while a cool rain falls on our faces. We both agree that this moment alone makes our Tulum trip a success. The rain continues to get harder and harder, to a point where it starts to sting, and then there’s some lightning and thunder, so we get out of the water and walk back to our hut.
It doesn’t rain too much in Playa. Not really regularly at least. Certainly not like it does in Florida during the summer. So I wasn’t immediately thinking of rain when I saw the condition of our hut. But now, escaping from the torrential downpour to “inside” our hut, I realise that holes in the walls and ceiling aren’t necessarily just cosmetic defects. We meet a couple of our other dormitorio residents, a nice young German couple on summer break from university, and they’re huddling in a corner, trying to stay out of the cold rain. They’ve been there for awhile, so at least they were able to get most of their stuff out of the way of the rain. Their hammocks were right under one of the holes and all of their stuff was in the hammock (so that it was off the ground), so it could have been pretty bad for them. But they got it in time. Even though Dan and I had got one of the last open places in the dormitorio, somehow the roof above it was quite sound, so we were okay. We all wait in the hut for an hour or two, waiting for the rain to pass. Dan and I are hoping to get some dry clothes and head into town for dinner. Finally it does, and we go into town and have a wonderful dinner of antijitos where he introduces me to the salbute. Hopefully I’ll write more about antijitos later on; I’m kind of obsessed with them at the moment, but I think they deserve their own dedicated blog post.
But getting back to the important part. We get back to the hut. Dan decides to sleep on the beach for a while, so I curl up into the hammock. The sand fleas get too bad for him, so he comes back in and we both try and sleep in the hammock for awhile. Then it starts to rain. Our hammock is fine. We both get some drops, which does admittedly make it hard to sleep, but these poor German kids are really getting rained on and this Irish girl the next hammock over starts loudly complaining about how she wants her money back. The German kids move and huddle in a corner for awhile. Eventually the rain stops, but now the mosquitoes are bad. I’m doing alright (although I was in a tank top and they kept stinging me through the bottom of the hammock which is somehow many times more annoying than if they sting your arms or legs), but Dan is having a really hard time of it. He goes back to the beach for awhile, eventually coming back when it’s too cold. It is quite chilly by this point so we huddle together for body heat and await morning. The surprising thing is that I actually slept some that night. I even slept in til 9:30.
We go lay on the beach for a few more hours, have some lunch, he finds a pretty little bracelet for his girl back home, and then I hop a colectivo back to Playa and he gets the ADO bus to Chetumal. When I got to Playa, I promptly took a four hour nap.
